The word "hairdressing salon" occurs from German Perucke - a wig and Macher - the manufacturer. It has become current with the advent of the first German masters of hairdresses in Petersburg in days of Peter I. It is possible to tell, that hairdressers have played a certain role in rapprochement of Russia with Europe. Peter I has forced the top social classes to accept the European customs while bottoms still for a long time remained true to olden time. The society was divided into smoothfaced noblemen and bearded common people. One continued to be cut in the old manner at barbers, others have got acquainted with all subtleties then «куаферного» (hairdresser's) art. Куаферами (from French сoiffeur) in XIX century named hair stylists. Hairdressing salons during that time were at all baths and in some hotels....
From Anna's book Sikorsky "the Beauty salon on a turn-key basis"
In the autumn of 1767 all Female Petersburg has come to excitement. The hearing became the fact and even has found acknowledgement in such dry and the official publication, as «Sankt - the Petersburg Sheets» which number from October, 5th, 1767 has got to boudoirs: «Ла Lyons, the Frenchman who has arrived here from Paris, the pupil of mister Le of the Gross - the nice inventor of headdresses, is able to clean to ladies' persons of a head on 33 different a manner, and for this purpose, having intention to serve the interested person in those attires, this declares, that the residence has on the Admiralty party, near Senna, in the house перчаточника Цана». So in Russia there was a first French hairdresser.In 90th of XVIII century in St.-Petersburg 43 Russian masters and 20 pupils, 73 German masters were. Into Russian shop entered also брадобреи and barbers of all - 82 masters, 22 journeymen and 23 pupils. Owners of barber's shops were simultaneously doctor assistants and grinders of tools. The French master on hairdresses Дибо was the initiator of opening of a hairdressing salon in modern value. It in 1823 has opened a hairdressing salon near the Kazan bridge in the house constructed by prince Golitsinym. In санкт Petersburg in the XX-th century beginning the best hairdressing salons, them named still "shops", were in the Big Sea street, on Voznesensky, Foundry and Neva prospectuses. At the Petersburg women of fashion and dandies the salon куафера used Olivier special popularity. It has been opened in 1826 on the Neva prospectus in the house known as manor column Shuvalov. « The shop "offered" man's, ladies' hairdresses, пастишь, paints for hair, perfumery, ties, brushes and other goods ». After revolution the salon has remained. Many outstanding people of a city, actors of theatre of the Musical comedy, Pushkin theatre, workers of the House of Radio used its services. On November, 24th, 2004 on the basis of the oldest hairdressing salon of Petersburg joint venture" Debut-vella ".В Petersburg up to the XX-th century beginning ladies' hairdressing salons has been created specialised almost exclusively on wedding and ball hairdresses. Was considered, that to the decent lady well trained parlourmaid can quite make all other hairdresses.
The authorities since times of board of Peter I up to the beginning of liberal reforms strictly regulated appearance of Russians. So at emperor Nikolay I moustaches were authorised to be had only the military man. The beard relied only to the peasant or a merchant. A nobleman, daring to carry a beard, could deal with police. Freedom in a choice of hairdresses has appeared in Russia with the introduction on a throne Alexander II. During an epoch of liberal reforms, Moscow worries the present hairdresser's boom. In days of the big balls along the street where there were houses known куаферов, it was impossible to pass - carriages of clients blocked streets, for order maintenance in turn often it was necessary to cause police.
The best hairdressing salons of Moscow conceded nothing to the Parisian. In them it was possible to make a hairdress or to invite the master to the house, or even to get the subscription on constant service. In salons sold cosmetics and perfumery. Among the first persons of Moscow was fashionable to order expensive perfumery sets. At their delivery, a name of the customer loudly declared the special door-keeper, as at a state reception. The hairdresser's season began in October and came to an end only in the next summer. All this time «куаферные» masters watched closely fashionable magazines. Is better all Agapov in the Newspaper lane, near to Assumption church was considered. Nine ladies' most first class masters from Agapov went round every day on fifteen-twenty houses. Well-born noblemen, princes, columns were Agapov's clients. Agapov, soon, to cut has ceased and set such balls, that in Newspaper was not to call in: all is entirely hammered by crews. However the grown rich merchant class preferred the French hairdressers or at least those who gave out itself(himself) for Frenchmen. Even respectable куафер Vasily Jakovlev, neighbour Agapov in the Newspaper lane, has replaced a signboard with "master Bazilja", not speaking about simple barbers who have hastened to release small beards «a-lja Napoleon III» and have started talking suddenly on ломанном Russian. Masters in best "shops" basically were Russian though had the French pseudonyms. Among themselves playing «французиков» hairdressers laughed over aspiring to flash «nobleness of manners» clientele: «If the hairdresser to speak the French words knows, big to it the price in good merchant houses. Call even on balls and order to talk loudly in a lobby to servants that all heard. And there is nothing, and speak... It is possible and invent - understanding is not present!» .Причиной to that the person of the Moscow hairdresser's elite then was defined by Frenchmen, was not only draught of merchant class for «the Parisian glamour». The French hairdressing salons in Moscow were a part of the international fashionable industry. They received the best equipment and accessories from abroad. Russian masters sceptically concerned technical innovations: «Fashionable now have gone - никуды masters. From hands, happened, back on a hairstyle removed, and they strive the machine. Through day-two hair will sprout, and to a style again is not present».Русским to hairdressers it was necessary to be switched to less well-founded public. In Passionate parkway Artemyev's big man's hall where for the first time have established the firm rate for work has opened: « Shaving of 10 copecks with cologne and вежеталем, on tea of the master do not take ». Before Frenchmen well earning here have been compelled to give"middle class"to hands of Russian hairdressers. The simple people used not куаферов, and barbers. Usually except hairdresser's (barber's shops) they worked in public baths. Barbers cut, shaved, and also bled, put cups, cut callosities, treated for rheumatism. Even in a province hairdressing salons gradually equipped on European manners. In the beginning of XIX century the fashionable hairdressing salon in Minusinsk (Krasnoyarsk region) - a city with 10000 thousand inhabitants here is how looked. The hairdressing salon settled down in the big street, in the good brick house. In halls there was a Viennese furniture, washstands and mirrors were constantly updated. On card-tables day and evening newspapers laid, in glass show-windows there were cosmetic products: Spirits, cologne, powder, scented water, soap of the best on those times of marks "Kochi", «Брокаръ», «Ралле». A hairdressing salon visited rich минусинцы, they spoke, what even in large cities and in the Moscow hardly will find one-two similar institutions. Compared a hairdressing salon to salons on Kuznetsk, Tver. In a hairdressing salon subscriptions on which paid for visiting more cheaply have been entered. There was a form on which marked a kind of works of the hairdresser: a wave, a hairstyle, complexity of a hairdress.
In the report of Velikoluksky town council for 1897 three hairdressing salons (also approximately on 10000 population) are mentioned. The Velikoluksky regional specialist And. P.Lopyrev recollects one of these hairdressing salons: «Having entered at the glazed door, you got to salon, metres 15-20. In it was two armchairs with leather headrests, a hanger, some chairs for expecting both a little table with newspapers and magazines. Before a mirror always there was a set of bottles with various spirits, colognes, scented water, jars with бриолинами, вежеталями, фиксутуарами and other conditioning agents behind hair».
After October revolution beauty salons in Russia worry decline. Partly it is connected by that extreme simplification of hairdresses has begun. A short hairstyle, head shaving, a small beard a-lja Trotsky, thin "bureaucratic" short moustaches over an upper lip - that's all a variety. In addition there was a powerful competition from the state hairdressing salons. Curling НЭПа in our country in the late twenties leads to that up to the beginning 90 about hairdresser's art any more do not recollect. Destiny of the well-known masters have developed differently, one worked in the state hairdressing salons, others, using old age, have left on rest. And the third as «socially alien element», have rung out on Соловки, whence have not returned any more. The beauty industry starts to revive in Russia with the beginning of reorganisation and the permission of enterprise activity. Today the enterprises of the industry of beauty where the person comes to receive services in care of appearance or services in its change, name institutes, salons, hairdresser's, studios, clinics, the beauty and health centres. They differ with a set of services, level of service and the prices.
Outstanding names in салонном business. Max Faktor. The inventor of a special make-up for movie stars Maxim Faktorov was born in Lodz, in the seventies the XIX-th centuries. At the age of 8 years became the pupil of the dentist-pharmacist. For many years it studied art of drawing up of compoundings and change of appearance of the person. Already in 20 years Max operated own beauty salon. In beginning ХХ of century Maxim Faktorov has opened first "shop" on suburb of Moscow. In it he offered typical services to start a century. However the blush prepared by manual way, creams, spirits and wigs were a salon highlight. Its products used huge popularity at theatrical actors and have brought to it glory and good luck. Maxim Faktorov became the official supplier of an imperial family and imperial Opera Theatre. In 1904 Maxim Faktorov leaves to America. In Saint Louis in 1904 it begins sale of creams and blush under a new name, Max Factor, and in 1908 moves in Лос Анжелес. In 1914, Max Factor has invented a cream-base for film actors. Unlike a theatrical make-up, it did not burst and did not roll down under beams of spotlights. The novelty has caused the present furore. Actors stayed hours in mejk-ap Max Faktora's studios, wishing to try a new voice-frequency cream. The advertising company of production of the master has been based on idea: «Each girl with cosmetics from Max Factor can look as the movie star». It has brought to it world popularity. Today the brand «Max Factor» remains to one of the most popular in the world. Elena RubinshtejnElena Rubinshtejn, or princess Gerelli - one of the most succeeding business women of first half of XX-th century. She was born in 1870 in Krakow in a family of succeeding businessman Goratsija Rubinshtejna. From mother it has firmly acquired thought: « The beauty will give you the power and force to dispose of own life ».В to a family there was an established order: Elena and her sisters should put every evening before a dream a cream on the face. Mother thus repeated:« It will make you beautiful, and to be beautiful - means to be the woman ». Young Elena has for ever remembered these words, and the cream became business of all her life. In eighteen it begins an independent life, goes to Australia. There in 1904 it opens the first-ever institute of beauty. The success was instant. In ten years she has earned the capital for opening of the enterprises in Europe. In 1908 Рубинштейн has visited Paris, Vienna and London. From the British experts she has learnt, that tone in the beauty industry was set by the British ladies of society - the choosiest in the world. They considered, that the make-up is carried only by actresses and prostitutes. Many spoke to Elena:« Try to open salon in London, and they you сметут ». However left on the contrary. The first salon opened in luxurious area of capital, Мейфере, for service of the selected society, had tremendous success and became a basis of blossoming of empire of Elena Rubinshtejn. Elena has opened the following salon in Paris which was considered as the world centre of a fashion and art. At that time there there lived Picassos, Дункан, Хемингуэй, Фитцджеральд, and Koko Chanel only just began the fashionable business. In 1915 Рубинштейн has opened the first beauty salon on Manhattan. In America at that time the make-up was considered as the indecent. Decent Americans dared to powder only rice powder a nose. The next two years Elena has opened salons in San Francisco, Boston, Philadelphia, Washington, Los Angeles, Chicago and the Canadian Toronto. By 1929 salons Rubinshtejn have appeared in Milan, Vienna and Rome. Same year it has opened the central salon on the Fifth avenue in New York that became the culmination of its success. The salons she named «beauty bastions». In them physiatrists, stylists, cosmeticians, dieticians, trainers, doctors and ladies' hairdressers worked. Manufacture of cosmetics from Рубинштейн has been put on a stream, jars extended through thousand shops and departments of department stores. It was the major source of incomes of firm. Elena's incomes of «beautiful business» allowed it to get estates, subjects of art, a jewelry and companions. Its second husband prince Gerelli whom she has married in 1938 became the valuable acquisition. It had houses in Paris, London, in the south of France, in New York and Greenwich. But New York became headquarters. In 1950 Рубинштейн has entered into ten the richest women of the world obliged by successes. She has achieved it persistent work. In a youth Elena radiated beauty, and, becoming more senior, - extreme confidence. Its way of business management: «Business - first of all». Its authoritativeness was shown basically: « Either in my opinion, or in any way ».Елена Рубинштейн admitted, that is constant in the work lifted a lath on, apparently, impossible both for itself, and for surrounding height. In its lexicon there was no word« no ». She knew the business and has always been assured of the success. In eighty six years it has made a three-monthly trip, having visited the salons from Australia to Vienna, having turned also to Tel Aviv. Beginning in Melbourn the business, it had no anything, except dream. However afflicted with work and passionate aspiration to success, it has made imaginations a reality. Elizabeth Arden. In 1908 to New York there has arrived thirty-year Canadian Florens Najtingejl Grehem. Two years she has devoted to studying of cosmetic art, and in 1910 has opened the first beauty salon on the Fifth Avenue. It took a new name - Elizabeth Arden. Its motto of a steel:« Health, Beauty, Luxury, Quality ». She considered, that beauty — not simply make-up and a face care and a body, the beauty is a conscious cooperation with the nature and aspiration to improve the best parties of female nature. Within 58th years of the life she created beauty salons worldwide. In them women trained not only to rules of use of cosmetics, but also dances, fencing and other kinds of physical exercises. Арден has made ink and shades popular and has expanded a spectrum of colours of a make-up indefinitely. To it attribute idea popular in 60th years that«make-up»should be combined with colour of clothes, instead of with a hair colour. She has invented easy and low-fat« Venetian cream Амаретто »for a young skin. It has included for the first time a company name in the name of cosmetic means (Ardena Skin Tonic), thereby, having transformed each small bottle in the independent advertisement. Elizabeth Ardenn has opened the first «SPA» a-resort for women where it was possible to have a rest and simultaneously to make toilet. Арден has created the first educational film about beauty. Elizabeth Arden's activity is noted by set of awards: among them there is an award of National Military Fund for Courage and Charity («Gallantry in Giving»), and also the French Award of the Honourable Legion. Empire Arden united 17 various corporations and 40 beauty salons worldwide. In 1990 magazine Life has included Ms. Elizabeth Arden in the list «Outstanding Americans of the twentieth century». Saw СэссунЕго name Picasso of hairdresser's art, the reformer and the revolutionary. Saw Сэссун has thought up a hair drier for hair, has created the method of a hairstyle, has developed a series of means on care of hair, became the founder of hairdresser's Academy, the owner of hundreds salons worldwide. Saw Сэссун was born in a poor family from London Ист Энда. In 14 years it became a journeyman in Adolf Cohen's hairdresser's salon. To twenty has gone to be at war to Palestin. Having returned to London, it has arrived the pupil to Rajmondu Besson – to the Mr. the "Ringlet-cocoon", the well-known stylist 50. In the beginning 60 Сэссун has opened the first tiny salon on the Bond-strit. The glory has come to Сэссуну practically instantly. London 60th years of veins under music Биттлз, put on at Mary Kuant and was cut at Сэссуна. Among its clients there were many celebrities - model Твигги, singer Mirej Mate. In 1963 Сэссун has thought up the well-known hairstyle "bean", in 1966 – "geometrical" and dissymetric hairstyles. Hairdresses from Сэссуна any more did not demand daily packing, varnishes, hairpins and начесов. Last 20 years Saw Сэссун does not touch scissors. It develops conditioning agents behind hair which embody its magic formula Wash and Go. Becoming the slogan of all women in 60, it remains popular and today. In the end of ХХ centuries Сэссун, the Californian millionaire and the founder of the Jerusalem centre of studying of Anti-Semitism, is considered the most considerable figure in history of hairdresser's art. Jacque DessanzhSet of the French beauty salons "Jacque Dessanzh" totals more than 520 enterprises all over the world, 30000 women daily serving more. The history of development of mark Jacques Dessange has begun in small small village Суэсм. The father of the future master contained small shop, and nearby hairdresser's salon. Jacque Dessanzh has begun career by the assistant in salon of the father. 1946 when to Jacque 20 years were executed, he has left Суэсм. In Paris its second teacher became Луи Жерве - the fashionable hairdresser of Paris of 40th years. In its salon in capital Jacque also has begun the activity. It has quickly mastered hairdresser's art, and, that is important, good manners: politeness, attention and art of reception of clients as which the master considers as pledge of its unknown success. For the first time Jacque Dessanzha's name became widely known in 1951 when it has made hairdress Одри Хепберн for film shootings «the Queen of Africa». Work with stars has made its popular. It has opened the first salon in 1956. In 60th years Дессанж has created well-known «бабетту» - for Бриджит Бардо. Throughout last 15 years Jacque Dessanzh is the stylist of stars of world cinema - the official hairdresser of opening ceremony of a film festival in Cannes. In 1975 he has created also the beginnings and to develop in France system франчайзинга. In 1997 has opened Institutes of Beauty Jacques Dessange. Aldo KoppolaAldo Coppola – one of the most popular brands in the world industry of a fashion and beauty. Aldo Coppola in 12 years began to work in a hairdressing salon of the father and, after only 3 years, at 15-year-old age, has been awarded an honorary title «Master of Art». In 1964 in the centre of Milan it has opened first salon Aldo Coppola. Its popularity begins with close cooperation with fashion magazines: Vogue, Elle, Marie Clair, Amica, Grazia. He creates images for advertising campaigns Lancome, L’oreal, Wella, Revlon. At its participation there pass fashionable displays of collections of such brands, as Moschino, Dior, Calvin Klein, Valentino, Versace, Christian Lacroix, Giorgio Armani, Gianfranco Ferre, Valentino. Among constant clients Aldo Coppola many top models: Наоми Кэмпбел, Charles Bruni, Клаудиа Шиффер, Linda Evangelista, Kejt Moss, Летиция the Caste. For today франчайзинговая network Aldo Coppola totals more than 70 salons located in the world centres of a fashion, large cities of Italy, Monte-Carlo, Sent-Moritts and Moscow. In Milan and Moscow the Academy of stylists Aldo Coppola operates. Долорес КондрашоваВозрождение hairdresser's art in the USSR and Russia connect with name Долорес Кондрашовой. She is an owner of set of the international and Russian awards. In 1999 the government of France for outstanding merits in the field of art has handed over Кондрашовой an award командора the Big knightly cross, and in 2003 the decree of the President of the Russian Federation V.V. Putin to it the rank «the Honored worker of arts» has been appropriated. Долорес - the talented and known hairdresser, has trained and has brought up four generations of world champions on hairdresser's art, among which: Irina Baranova, Marina Vaskanjan, Sergey Zverev, Svetlana Ryzhkova. It has generated for the first time a national team of hairdressers of new Russia and has prepared it for participation in the World championship of 1992. And in 1993 Долорес has organised two festivals: « The world of beauty "and" Spring opening day »which are today prestigious Russian professional holidays. Долорес Кондрашова heads the Union of hairdressers and cosmeticians of Russia and the Russian section of international elite hairdresser's club Intercoiffure Mondial. She is a founder and the head of Academy of hairdresser's art«Долорес»and a beauty salon« Велла Долорес », publishes a professional popular magazine for hairdressers, experts in decorative cosmetics and design of nails«Долорес».
Today as салонный business in Russia experts estimate capacity of such segment of the market of the industry of beauty in the sum of 2 billion US dollars. For comparison - in Germany it makes about 80 billion dollars. For the last years rates of growth of the Russian market were about 25 % a year. According to department of the consumer market of the government of Moscow Muscovites and visitors of capital monthly leave in beauty salons about 100 million US dollars. By different estimations, in a city 2500-3000 enterprises of the industry of beauty operate. For comparison, in Italy it is officially registered 11000 thousand beauty salons. In Moscow and Moscow suburbs - salons of a class "lux" - occupy elite institutions no more than 10 % of the market. In such salons perfumery-cosmetic means, the equipment and techniques of service of leading foreign firms are used. They remind these the best institutions of the beginning of the last century. Then in top-quality hairdressing salons all has been made «on foreign», of the best material. « Perfumery from London and Paris. In ladies' halls - great artists on hairdresses, people creative куаферской imaginations, experts on styles, and разговорщики ».Все other enterprises render psychology inexpensive services and remind barber's shops of beginning ХХ of century. If to rank as beauty salons only those institutions which render a wide spectrum of hairdresser's and cosmetology services at the European level their circle in Moscow will be narrowed to 400-450. From them top level salons occupy 15 %, and the others of 85 % it is necessary on the average and economy class enterprises. In Italy one salon is necessary on each 4500 inhabitants, while in Moscow the same level salon - on 30000. The considerable share in a segment of services belongs to hairdressers, cosmeticians and the masseurs conducting individual private activity. In Moscow is about 10-15 thousand the experts rendering services in-home. Only small part of such masters is officially registered.
In Russia on boundary ХIХ-ХХ of centuries of private masters named "cold". In Moscow they could be met in Зарядье and at the Ustinsky bridge, and also on Хитровом the market where they wandered in search of the client. To difficult operation of the barber invited home, and it could pull out a tooth directly in the street. Wishing to shave the barber efficiently asked: «With a finger or a cucumber?» In the first case at shaving a cheek delayed, thrusting in a mouth the finger, in the second - for an additional payment for the same purpose was offered a cucumber. Certainly, to the "cold" barber in manner it was far to "store" куафера, but also rules «комильфотного» shaving were familiar to it.
At 80 % of the population of Russia hairdresser's and cosmetic services are not included into a consumer's basket. People are cut, do manicure, a make-up or, at the best, at «cold barbers» in-home. Only 20 % of Russians periodically visit beauty salons while in the USA, for example, 80 % of Americans put in order the appearance in salons. In Russia salons where the client can receive hairdresser's and cosmetology services, such, as a hairstyle, colouring, packing, a make-up, manicure, a pedicure, depilation, procedures on a face care and a body are most claimed. The most part of hairdressing salons is concentrated in the capital centre. And in many not the prestigious, remote areas, new buildings, in quarters where live hundred thousand persons, hairdressing salons do not suffice. Each salon advertises high professionalism of the masters, discrepancy of quality of given services to their prices however is often visible. In the Moscow top salons the price for a hairstyle fluctuates within $50-200, and in middle class salons – $20-50. Quotations can mismatch qualification of the personnel, level of given service, a salon site. It undertakes frequent the margin for a brand which is not always known to the Russian consumer. In the West salon and price level are defined by a set of exclusive services, qualification of the personnel, service and interior level. The great value has also what cosmetic means are used in work by hairdressers and stylists. The western salon of top level works only with cosmetics of a class "lux". In Russia this rule is frequent is broken. The market of cosmetology services in Moscow and St.-Petersburg are on lifting. In a province, especially beyond Urals Mountains - in embryo. Level of wages of masters below a Central European indicator. Interest of the investors who are putting up money in this business, is connected and that its profitability makes 20-35 %. It in two-three times exceeds the European indicators. The competition in this segment, unlike other segments of the market of the industry of beauty (information, perfumery and cosmetics, educational), has not reached the maximum. The majority of salons in Moscow includes six-seven workplaces of hairdressers, маникюрный and a pedicure office, a sun deck, some offices for rendering of cosmetology services, massage. The average Russian salon has 4-5 hairdresser's places, an office of manicure, a pedicure, the cosmetician, a sun deck. One of world tendencies in салонном business - merging of aesthetic and medical services. Many salons do on it the rate. The gain from cosmetology procedures essentially increases a salon annual turnover, because they - the most expensive. Medical, cosmetology services are attractive to salons, are profitable, therefore on a way of expansion of the list of services there is also a majority of domestic owners of salons.
Some cosmetology clinics move aside purely aesthetic services, for example, introduce hairdresser's services traditional for salons. For example, the Center of cosmetology and plastic surgery has entered service "nejl-design". Salons with narrow specialisation develop also. Their distinctive feature that they are aimed at development of cosmetology services in the pure state, separately from hairdressing salons. SPA-salons which render cosmetology services on a level with balneotherapy and a relaxation actively start to be under construction.
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